Call us for a quote on 0345 230 2323

Hot Horses!

After such a long, wet, cold miserable winter I am sure that we all welcome this lovely summer weather, especially if able to relax and enjoy it! Unfortunately to many of us it has come as a bit of a surprise and neither we nor our horses are necessarily acclimatised.

Annie's top tips for dealing with the heat

  • Avoid exercise during the hottest part of the day
  • Provide ad lib water
  • Add water to feeds and feed soaked hay
  • Include electrolytes or kitchen salt in feeds
  • Always sweat scrape your horse after washing it off
  • Apply factor 50 sunscreen to pink noses
  • Use a pymerthrin based fly spray

Given time horses can become accustomed to extremes of temperature and some breeds have evolved to be particularly efficient at this, a prime example being the Arab horse in the desert- where a 30-degree shift in day-night temperature is not unusual.

Particular problems arise when the horse has to work in extreme heat. It has a relatively large muscle mass and low surface area to mass ratio. Heat is lost by radiation and evaporation of sweat so it is a disadvantage to be large and muscular if you need to lose heat quickly. In order to increase heat exchange skin’s blood vessels engorge and bring the blood to the surface from where heat is lost. An example of this is most obvious in racehorses after a race, but the same mechanisms are present even in the smallest of hairy ponies.  Cooling will only occur when there is a heat “gradient”  or difference between the horse and its surroundings. This will be very much reduced when the air temperature is around 30 degrees. Heat is also lost through respiration; the respiratory rate may rise a little, noticeable especially if the lungs are compromised in some way, such as individuals who may have inflammatory airway disease or asthma.

Most people will be doing the sensible things of avoiding exercising in the hottest part of the day, providing ad lib water for their horses and providing some degree of shade, or bringing them in during the day.  Water consumption increases in hot weather to compensate for that lost through sweat and evaporation from the respiratory system. It is obviously cooler in the shade but if stabled, it is absolutely essential to have adequate ventilation.  Traditional stables, especially of wooden construction can easily heat up and become saunas. The use of electric fans can provide a welcome breeze. In hot weather, it can be advantageous to add water to the feed and provide wet hay as this can increase water intake. Forage holds fluid and provides a reservoir in the hindgut. In cases where there is insufficient water intake or the horse is particularly hot, the fluid absorbed from the gut can be excessive and impaction colic can result.  If the horses are out in the field with self -filling troughs these should be checked regularly as they often go green with algae in hot weather and the water becomes unappetizing to some. 

Electrolytes which are essential for muscle function are lost in sweat. In hot weather, a tablespoon of kitchen salt in feed will help to replenish this or you may choose to use commercially available electrolyte preparations. These can be given in water, but fresh water should always be available as well as some horses do not like the taste of electrolytes.

There are occasions when riding in the heat of the day is unavoidable, especially if you are competing. It is important to be adequately prepared, take plenty of water from home even if there is some available at the venue.  Some horses will not drink strange water! Another tip is to take the horse’s own water bucket from the stable. I have personal experience of one who would not drink “home” water in a “strange” bucket!  If you have a choice park your vehicle where there is shade. Ensure all the windows are open and put the ramp down.  Should you be fortunate enough to have electric fans in your lorry, run them every so often. If attending to the horse outside of the horsebox do this in its shade. Have drinking water available at all times that you are not riding. Allow the horse access to forage as this will help hold water which will be absorbed from the gut when required.

Flies, both biting flies such as horseflies and nuisance ones around the eyes are always worse during the summer and a good fly repellent is essential. A pymerthrin based one which is applied all over the horse is best.

Dr Annie Bevins

Much research was carried out before the Atlanta Olympics on cooling horses after exercise. In the larger events, we now see tents with fans emitting cooling mists but your local show centre is highly unlikely to have such luxury! The best method in this situation is to apply copious amounts of water over the neck and body and to scrape it off with a sweat scraper. The heat is then removed with the water. Under no circumstances should cold towels be placed over the neck as these rapidly become hot towels and there is no facility for evaporation. Similarly leaving the horse soaked with water is less efficient at cooling it because a “film” of hot water stays on the skin. Offer water as soon as you have finished your round and encourage him to drink.  If your horse is a particularly ”sweaty” type and you are competing regularly it is probably better to clip him out as it will be easier to keep him cool. This is probably not an option for show horses but showjumpers are regularly clipped all year round.

By far the most important thing in this weather is keeping your horse cool but other problems can arise, particularly in bright sunlight. Horses are just as susceptible as humans to sunburn and pink noses should always be protected. A full face mask which reaches over the nose is useful if the horse is out at grass, and this can also keep flies away from the eyes. However, I would always advocate the use of a sunblock. Factor 50 (for children) is the best and should be applied regularly.

Flies, both biting flies such as horseflies and nuisance ones around the eyes are always worse during the summer and a good fly repellent is essential. A pymerthrin based one which is applied all over the horse is best. This lasts longer and can also be of use against midges for individuals suffering from sweet itch. The use of fly repellent is essential if you have a horse with sarcoids, or share the premises with one. Flies are important in the spread of these unpleasant tumours as they pick up the virus and spread it to another place on the affected horse or to another susceptible one. Many people find fly rugs useful, some of which come impregnated with pymerthrin to repel flies and being white or light in colour they do help to reflect the sun’s rays and so may aid a little in cooling.

KBIS are one of the largest independent horse insurance providers, offering all types of insurance for the equestrian. Our insurance products include horsebox and trailer, breakdown, personal accident, liability, property and horse - including a wide variety of veterinary fee options. You can get a horse insurance quote online or call 0345 230 2323.  

Read more